Kioni
Continuing south from Frikes along the coast, the road, only
several meters above the sea, passes through vineyards, olive
trees, old semi-ruined mills and small picturesque beaches,
coming to an end at the quaint village of Kioni. The village
is about 5 km from Frikes and a total distance just below 25
km from Vathi.
One
kilometer before Kioni, the road passes Mavrounas Bay. The
landscape is full of trees reaching down to the beautiful
clean beaches which are ideal for swimming and fishing.
A dirt road and paths lead down to the bay where a battle
took place between the inhabitants and pirates in 1650's.
After their victory over the pirates, out of gratitude the
people decided to establish at this site the monastery of
Agios Nicholaos, which functioned until the end of the last
century.
The buildings were destroyed by the earthquakes of 1953 but
fortunately the church was left standing. An interesting and
unusual object in this church is a an ancient column set at
the alter which was probably from an ancient temple that stood
in this area.
Between Mavrounas and Kioni Bays, the inhabitation of Rachi,
belonging to the community of Kioni, sits on the hill. The
view from this point is infinite not only of both the bays,
but of the islands and land east of Ithaca. In Rachi the church
of Panagia Evangelestria is interesting to visit, also are
the several traditional houses which resisted the earthquakes.
From Rachi there are two ways down to Kioni, winding its
way down through the houses, or the other descending into
a glen full of olive trees, which belong to the people of
the village. Both ways have a scenic view of the village which
extends around the seashore of the bay and up the slopes of
the hills coming into the bay.
Kioni
means a small column. According to tradition a column was
set down in the beach during the Middle Ages for pirates and
some fishermen to secure their boats.
The inhabitation was established at the end of the 16th
century by people from the mountain village of Anoghi, first
settling around Argalios, at the lower slope of Neritos mountain
and later they extended to the other areas.
During the 19th century there were over 1,000 people living
in the village. The number of businesses were very successful,
because the surrounding areas were cultivated and many of
the people had a variety of skills. From the beginning of
this century the population started to slowly decrease until
1950, when it declined abruptly. Today the permanent residents
are less than 200 people.
In Kioni, like all the other villages of Ithaca the amount
of people multiplies in the summer months. A large percentage
of the residents who immigrated elsewhere and sailors, come
back to visit at this time of the year. Also the number of
tourist visitors on the island is steadily increasing and
dozens of yachts stop daily at the picturesque village.
The central church of the village Agios Ioanis, was destroyed
by time and rebuilt, and a second time by earthquakes, where
fortunately the reredos and icons were not harmed and are
in the Agios Ioanis which exists today. Very few houses survived
the earthquakes, of which the two story buildings on the wharf,
are the more interesting, having renaissance characteristics.
The three semi-ruined mills standing at the bay's entrance
operated when Ithaca had a large production in wheat, until
beginning of this century.
Two large festivities with live music and dance take place
in Kioni, the 24th of June is for Agios Ioanis and the 20th
of July for Agios Elias, which is a small church, at a distance
of one mile from the three mills, built on the rocks by the
sea. On the 20th of July, the people of Kioni reach the small
church with their fishing boats to attend the holy service.
There
are many rooms to rent in hostels and houses at the village,
also taverns and coffee shops where backgammon can by played,
stores for food, beaches and boat rentals. There are four
bays for swimming and fishing. A bus coming from Vathy offers
public transportation two or three times daily via Stavros
and Platrithias.
During the summer a boat is also a means of transportation
to Vathy, which by sea is only 6 miles away. |